Monte Alban is an important archeological site just outside of Oaxaca. There is evidence that the Valley of Oaxaca has been inhabited since about 2000 BC, and it has been the home to a succession of Mesoamerican cultures. Monte Alban was a city (or possibly ceremonial site) built on top of a hill overlooking the valley. It was first built around 800 BC and as each wave of new inhabitants moved in, they expanded the city and put their own stamp on it. However, by the time of the Conquest in the early 1500s, the city had been abandonded and was covered over. It was rediscovered in the 1930s by a Mexican archeologist, who excavated many of the buildings. He also uncovered some spectacular tombs filled with treasures and artwork.

We visited Monte Alban as part of a tour. Our guide, Antonio, performed the impressive trick of repeating everything, word for word, in both Spanish and English, including people's questions and his answers. He told us that there remain many parts of Monte Alban that have not yet been excavated for lack of funds.

It was useful for us occasionally to remember that Mesoamerican civilization had not yet discovered iron. Some tools were made from alloys of copper, and artisans had achieved an unusual mastery in silver and gold. But the most common implements were made from sharpenable rocks such as obsidian and hard rocks such as granite. The level of craftsmanship on both the small scale (jewelry) and large scale (architecture) provides a new dimension to the phrase "stone-age peoples."